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Common Bicycling TOPICS

Top Ten E-Bikes  

Can’t decide? Did the specifications get the best of you? Relax—we got this. We compiled this handy guide to help you narrow down your choices and find the best bike. Even if your budget is tight, you may have yet to consider the various options and ways to fit your budget. Fortunately, we have done a lot of work for you. When considering our Top Ten, we evaluated reliability, warranty, features, serviceability, cost, functionality, handling, and ride comfort.

One topic that has had a lot of press lately is battery safety. Our shop has a strict battery safety process, and we suggest that consumers educate themselves on battery safety. Safe battery charging, storage, and disposal are essential considerations and should be reviewed for your evaluation.

Here is your step-by-step buying guide:

CHOICES

Where. Narrow down your search by the most common place you will ride. Consider the types of surfaces you’ll be riding on most often. If you are on paved roads, a road bike might be suitable, while off-road trails require a mountain or gravel bike. Ride difficulty increases after you leave the paved road. Also, consider how technical the terrain is, and find a bike that will handle those conditions.

Price. Plan a price range you want to budget. Prices for e-bikes break at a few typical levels. Set a budget for your bicycle purchase. Different types of bicycles come at varying price points, so it’s important to balance your budget and the features you need. Avoid bikes under $300 because they have poor quality and cheap batteries.

How Often. Estimate how often you will ride. The more you ride, the greater the demand for maintenance on worn items like the battery, brakes, and chain. If you expect to ride more often, consider a higher budget. Casual riding is a few times per month. A more active schedule, like three times per week, will stress an inexpensive bike.

How Far. Estimate how long and how far you will ride. Most customers ride for less than one hour and less than five miles. Although you may ride infrequently, quality could impact your decision to go out for a ride. A better bike could be a wise choice for starting an exercise program. If you plan to ride over an hour or more than ten miles, you probably should consider bikes priced over $1,500.

Tech Specs. Pick the technology you prefer. Some off-brand components are of good quality and work very well. However, they may suffer from the availability of repair and replacement parts. Higher quality components are more reliable, with predictable performance over their lifespan. Mainline brands are well supported at local shops, too. Bosch, Yamaha, Shimano, Brose, Specialized, SRAM, Fox, RockShox, Magura, and others make prominent and reliable components.

Skill. Match your skill level to the bike you select. If you have a high skill level, you may be disappointed by a less expensive e-bike. Then again, spending a lot on the tech you may never use could also be frustrating. Most customers look for a bike that matches their skill or aspiration levels. A $1,000 bike may be just fine for a beginner, while an expert rider may want to hit the $3,000 range.

Subjective. Our last criteria are personal. Ask if this is a bike you would enjoy the look and feel of. Does the bike speak to you? After all, if you hate how it looks, you may ride and enjoy the bike very little. Surprisingly, most people don’t realize the bike’s appearance is a big part of their decision. It’s not all analytical.

THE BIKES

Have you got a vision? Picture yourself on a typical ride: A sunny day—a cool breeze—and a scenic landscape. If it feels right, you are ready to find your bike. By far, the essential step is to ride the bike before you buy. This lets you try different models and feel the differences. Each category has unique characteristics and is designed to excel in specific riding conditions and purposes. Riders can choose the type of bicycle that best suits their preferences and intended use. And, don’t forget to check out all the e-bike specials. There are bikes on sale for more than 50% off! Look down the Top-Ten list and see if you find a good match for your needs.


Urban Cruiser & Hybrid Bikes

Hybrid e-bikes are our best-selling bike type. This style is an excellent choice for all-around use. Urban e-bikes run in price from toys for $300 to mid-drive models that run up to $6,000. The best bikes for reliability and functionality are over $1,500. The key factors of the most common urban e-bike are:

· Best suited for easy and novice terrain

· Most are priced under $2,000 for a reliable bike

· Best for casual riding

· Set up for shorter, more relaxed, moderate rides

· Characterized by low-tech

· Are best for a beginner and novice rider

Bikes in this category tend to be hub-drive models focusing on functionality. You will find these in step-over and step-through frames. Cruisers, like the Aventon Pace, are known for their upright riding position and comfortable style. Cruiser bikes are often used for casual, leisurely rides on flat terrain. They have wide tires, swept-back and raised handlebars, and a relaxed riding position. Hybrid bikes combine the features of road and mountain bikes, making them suitable for a mix of paved and light off-road riding. Most hybrids have a more upright riding position and wider tires and often include features like fenders and racks. Often, hybrids, like the smaller profile Troxus Lynx, Another trendy brand, include a suspension fork to improve comfort and handling.

Hybrid and cruiser bikes usually come with larger tires (2.0 to 4.5). This lets you navigate uneven terrain better. Larger tires also add to riding comfort. The big fat tires (3.0 to 4.0) are great in sand, loose dirt, gravel, and snow.

Aventon Level.2

Our Number One Urban e-bike choice is the Aventon Level.2.

There is no dispute that Aventon dominates this category. The Level style outsells every bike we have. The Aventon Aventure Fat-Tire, like the Level, is better suited for varied terrain with its 26×4 tires but has features similar to those of the smaller profile Level. The Level is the most popular Aventon model because of its versatility. It comes with hefty, durable tires (27.5 x 2.1) that instill confidence on any terrain, from paved to graded dirt roads. Although it is a sturdy model, the 750-watt motor (28mph PAS top speed), coupled with a big U.L. Listed battery (48v 14Ah), provides all the smooth power you need to make this bike ride like a Cadillac and go the distance (range is estimated at 40 to 60 miles, depending on conditions).

The Level has all the goodies: Step-Through or Step-Over design, easy access battery, fenders, headlight, taillight/brake light, powerful hydraulic disc brakes, and even a rack. The LCD display is high contrast, day or night, and shows battery level, speed, power level, and more. It has a powerful, reliable motor and a removable battery. Aventon has a good track record of reliability at an attractive price. And, unlike some direct-to-consumer brands, Aventon has a network of dealers, such as Archer’s Bikes, ready to help when you need maintenance or repairs.


Mountain Bikes

Built for off-road trails and rugged terrain, mountain e-bikes cover a vast spectrum of applications and prices. E-MTBs can be found for as little as $1,000. Some exceed $13,000. The most popular style we sell is characterized by:

· Are best suited for novice and skilled terrain

· Most are superior-priced, around $4,000

· Best for the active and enthusiastic rider

· Set up for longer distances, and the moderate or dedicated rider

· Characterized by mid-tech and high-tech

· Are best for a novice or even expert rider

E-MTBs feature sturdy frames, wide and knobby tires, suspension systems (either front suspension, a hardtail, both front and rear suspension, or full suspension), and flat or short-rise handlebars. Although there are a few hub-drive E-MTBs, they are either for special purposes (like hunting) or are made for budget-conscious buyers. Hub-Drive designs could be better suited for mountain biking due to their heft and poor weight distribution. The advantage of a mid-drive motor is its ability to transfer power and torque more efficiently to the rear wheel. It feels and handles like a pedal bike. Balance, weight distribution, and geometry are better on a mid-drive design. Once you have your Mountain Bike, make sure to avoid costly repairs with regular MTB maintenance.

Giant Stance E+

Our Number One Mountain bike choice is the Giant Stance E+ (or the Liv Embolden E+)

Giant has long been known for making the highest quality bikes. E-MTBs are no exception. Every detail, from the motor (Yamaha) to the EnergyPak (Panasonic) and U.L. Listing on the battery, is the highest grade. Environmentally responsible, Giant includes paid recycling for the battery on every e-bike.

Everything about the Stance and the Embolden typifies industry-leading geometry and frame design with Maestro suspension technology. This means that every E-MTB in the lineup gets the same motor and suspension geometry considerations for a superb ride, no matter your budget. For most of us, $4,000 is a big investment. It is nice to know that with Giant, performance is guaranteed with design, warranty, and service throughout the bike’s life.


Commuter Bikes

Bike to work! Commuter e-bikes are built for speed and distance. Hub drive models are most common for total bike durability and lower cost. Hub-drive setups place less strain on the drive train, resulting in longer service intervals. The profile of the most popular commuter e-bike is:

· Best suited for easy terrain (paved or graded dirt roads)

· Most are priced around the $3,000 reliable range

· Best for casual riding and speed (28mph)

· Set up for moderate rides, typically less than ten miles

· Characterized by low-tech

· Are best for a beginner or novice rider

For commuting, 28mph/Class 3 and throttle are a must. A larger battery is recommended, like the Trax 30Ah, 750w model, so you can cruise at top speed on the throttle or pedal the entire commute. A robust, rugged frame is best for durability. Bigger tires than a road bike are typical to avoid puncture and road hazard failures. A relaxed upright riding position with a suspension seat post and fork is preferred, adding to your ride comfort.

Troxus Trax Plus w/30Ah Battery

Our Number One Commuter bike choice is the Troxus Trax Plus

The Troxus Trax lineup (LT, Trax, and Plus) comes ready to ride. And, at under $2,000 for the Trax LT version, it is a perfect car alternative. Essentials, like a rack, hydraulic brakes, battery size options, large color display, up to 120-mile range, 28MPH, hydraulic disc brakes, front suspension, and super durable 27.5X2.2 tires with a reflective stripe, make this our Number One choice.

The best part of the Trax, is you can get the entry-level, budget-friendly model without breaking the bank. Troxus e-bikes are built to resist water – which is essential for commuting. It’s OK to ride your e-bike in the rain. An aluminum frame is rust-proof and holds up to rugged road conditions. Reliability is the focus of a commuter bike. The Trax meets all the commuter goals at an excellent price point.


Road Bikes

Designed for smooth, paved roads and high speeds. Road e-bikes have lightweight frames, skinny tires, drop handlebars, and a more aggressive riding position. Riders choose a road e-bike to enhance their distance, provide a little help in the wind or uphill, and increase overall ride enjoyment. The profile of our most popular road e-bikes is:

· Best suited for easy terrain (paved or graded dirt roads)

· Most are Top-Shelf, priced around $6,000

· Best for the active and enthusiastic rider

· Set up for longer distances, and the moderate or dedicated rider

· Characterized by high-tech

Road e-bikes universally have drop bars, smaller motors and batteries, small profile high-pressure tires, are the lightest e-bikes, focus on long rides, and have options for extended-range batteries. They are usually mid-drive, Class 3, and no throttle.

Specialized Turbo Creo SL

Our Number Road bike choice is the Specialized Creo SL

We picked the Specialized Creo SL mainly because it looks, feels, and rides like a high-tech pedal bike. There are lower-priced alternatives; however, they gravitate toward the Gravel bike genre. Most of our road e-bike riders want a fast, light bike. The Creo SL is the lightest e-bike in its class – literally kilograms lighter than the competition. Not only does the lightweight and stiff, premium E5 alloy frame inspire dancing on the pedals and diving into corners, but it also reduces overall system weight and increases the range.

The lightweight SL 1.1 motor doubles your effort with as much as 240 watts of silent and powerful assistance to amplify your ride. The motor’s responsive torque curve delivers power perfectly in tune with your normal riding cadence and leaves no resistance when riding unassisted. Comfort is premium, especially in the drops. With 20mm of rough-road-taming travel, the Future Shock 1.5 delivers a smoother, more comfortable ride, reduces fatigue, and increases speed over harsh terrain.

Admittedly, it does cost more than some rivals, but the performance is unparalleled—smooth, reliable, predictable, and fun. We picked the Creo because, in this segment, it is priced competitively and outperforms all the other bikes in its class.


Touring Bikes

Touring bikes are Designed for long-distance travel and, when loaded with gear, can hold up to long rides. Touring e-bikes have durable frames, multiple mounting points for racks and panniers, wider tires, and a comfortable riding position. Durability is the primary focus. Not a cargo bike and not a gravel bike, touring bikes are meant to hold your gear low for stability, with lots of options to mount bags and accessories. The profile of our most popular Touring e-bike is as follows:

· Best suited for easy terrain (paved or graded dirt roads)

· Most are superior quality, priced around $4,000

· Best for the active and enthusiastic rider

· Set up for longer distances, and the dedicated rider (28MPH)

· Characterized by mid-tech

Go beyond city limits and find new adventures. Touring (or Trekking) e-bikes give you the power to ride farther with assistance when needed. Longer range is achieved through integrated power levels to regulate your assistance for more range. Smooth suspension and larger tires make a highly capable trekker for smooth roads, gravel, or graded dirt roads.

Giant Explore E+ Touring Bike

Our Number One Touring bike choice is the Giant Explore E+ (or the Liv Amiti E+)

Giant has long been known for making great touring bikes. The Explore and Amiti complement the Giant tradition. Two features stand out that make these commuting/touring models number One. First is a mid-drive power system. A mid-drive provides the best power transfer in a very reliable and controlled manner. Known for high efficiency, this setup yields the best torque and power-to-the-ground while maximizing distance and overall reliability. The second is a sturdy frame with front suspension. Both are critical features that make a perfect touring bike.

The Ride Control EVO’s onboard navigation helps riders find their way, and smartphone connectivity makes it easy to charge the phone. Hydraulic disc brakes provide excellent stopping power when fully loaded, especially on long descents.


Budget-Priced E-Bikes

Not everyone can afford a $2,000 e-bike. But buyers should beware: a $300 e-bike may not last long, and the battery systems may be unreliable. Toys dominate the $300 price bracket. There is little or no warranty or repair support. In any case, our recommendation is to stay over $800. The profile of our most popular budget-priced e-bike is:

· Best suited for easy terrain (paved or graded dirt roads)

· Most are affordably priced around $1,000

· Best for the casual rider

· Set up for short distances, and the beginner rider

· Characterized by low-tech

Budget-priced e-bikes are usually smaller and lighter, have smaller motors and batteries, all-terrain tires, focus on urban commutes, and have space-saving designs. They are hub-drive, Class 2 or Class 3, and a throttle. Once you hit the $1,000 mark, these e-bikes are generally safe and reliable.

Lectric XP 3.0 Urban E-Bike

Our Number Budget e-bike choice is the Lectric XP 3.0

Lectric is known for being the best main-stream e-bike at an affordable price. The new XP 3 sports a quieter motor, increased torque, better brakes, longevity boosters, and added suspension are a few of the many notable upgrades with this epic eBike design. Best of all, brand-new optimized gearing makes riding at higher speeds smoother than ever before.

The XP 3 balances weight, convenience, and durability for the perfect balance of price versus performance. Clearly, Lectric has achieved its goal of providing the best value at the market’s most affordable price.

If you are on a budget and looking for a light portable e-bike, the Lectric is a great choice. It is easy to store and fun to ride.


Gravel Bikes

Ideal for a mix of paved and unpaved surfaces, gravel bikes have wider tires and a more relaxed geometry and often come with extra mounting points for accessories. The newest gravel bike designs distinguish between a heavy mountain bike and a lightweight road bike. Road bikes fail to handle unpaved roads, while mountain bikes are designed for heavy-duty offroad use. You should expect a gravel bike to be comfortable on paved surfaces, light and agile on graded dirt roads, and competent on mixed trail use. The profile of a quality e-gravel bike is:

· Best suited for moderate terrain (paved or graded dirt roads or groomed dirt trails)

· Most are expensive, priced at just under $10,000

· Best for the serious rider

· Set up for long distances, and the dedicated advanced rider

· Characterized by high-tech (dominated by carbon fiber tech)

Durability, agility, minimal weight, disc brakes, a carbon fiber frame, and tubeless gravel-specific tires are the hallmarks of a performance-grade electric gravel bike. For most buyers, budget is not a principal factor. Performance is the dominant driving consideration.

Specialized Creo 2 Comp Gravel Bike

Our Number One Gravel e-bike choice is the Specialized Creo 2 Comp

Road or Gravel? 5 miles or 5 hours? Climb or Descend? Suffer or Smile? More power or less weight? Creo 2 isn’t about having to choose. It’s about having it all. With more power, big range, lightweight, huge tire clearance, and Future Shock 3.0, it’s category defying, making previously impossible rides possible.

– SUPERNATURAL AMPLIFICATION: The all-new TURBO SL 1.2 system delivers industry-leading efficiency for a range of up to 5 hours. It creates 33% more power (320 Watts) than its predecessor and delivers that power across an ideal pedaling cadence for a supernatural feel. With 43% more torque (50Nm), the power comes on instantly—making quick work of the steepest hills. But less is more when it comes to noise, so we reduced dBs by 40%. It’s literally whisper quiet.

– RE-TIRED FOR CONFIDENCE: 700 x 47c Tires Spec’d but up to 29″ x 2.2 Tire Clearance. The big tire volume delivers a smooth and confident ride on the roughest of terrain. And with the Creo 2’s power, you can take all that tire volume to the road with no penalty for a next level silky ride.

– FUTURE SHOCK 3.0: The Creo 2 features Future Shock 3.0 with 20mm of smooth travel at the handlebars that reduces impacts by 53%. Future Shock helps keep your hands and bars steady for a smoother ride with more control to stay fast, safe, and confident—all while helping reduce fatigue over long days in the saddle.

– THE GEOMETRY OF CAPABILITY: The Creo 2 boasts our most progressive geometry yet that will have you ripping everything from wide open roads to dicey gravel tracks with ultimate confidence. A more ergonomic endurance position feels great, with the power to ride all day.

– TUNE IN, TURN ON, DROP ‘ER DOWN: Lower your center of gravity with the dropper post for enhanced cornering and control in any terrain.

– LOAD UP, HEAD OUT: Take a little or a lot on any ride. Creo 2 accepts a variety of front, rear, and low-rider racks. Who says you can’t take it all?

– YOU’RE IN CONTROL: Our most advanced and intuitive e-bike control unit. Connecting the bike, the Turbo OS, the Specialized App, and the rider, all in a protected and easily visible display. With MicroTune, fine-tuning power output levels in real-time is at your fingertips, optimizing your range management and performance.

– MASTERMIND TCU: The MasterMind TCU is the brain of the bike. Displaying all relevant info about your ride, it allows real-time tuning of support levels, enables over-the-air updates so that your bike gets better over time, and seamlessly integrates with the Specialized app for advanced tuning, on-trail diagnostics, customizable display, and more.

– ALL-NEW SPECIALIZED APP: The Creo 2 integrates fully with our Specialized App and lets you personalize your motor characteristics. You can record your rides, personalize your screens, track your data, sync with other apps, and even thwart would-be thieves with Turbo System Auto-Lock.


Cargo Bikes

The name says it all. Surprisingly, there are a ton of choices in this genre. Some are more like a pedicab, while others are no more than a longer touring bike with fat tires. Cargo e-bikes, as you would expect, have a heavy-duty carrying capacity, usually over 300 pounds. The profile of our most popular cargo e-bike is:

· Best suited for novice terrain (paved or graded dirt roads)

· Most are priced around the $3,000 reliable range

· Best for casual and active riding

· Set up for moderate rides, typically less than ten miles

· Characterized by low-tech but well-equipped for carrying a load

· Are best for a beginner or novice rider

For urban commuting or trips around town, a cargo e-bike is a customizable electric bike with speed, power, range, and stability to get you wherever you need to go with whatever you need. With myriad mounting options, you can bring the kids, a kayak, and a stop on the way home for groceries. Don’t sweat it getting dark on you, either. Integrated front and rear lights will have you dialed from dawn patrol to golden hour. Cargo e-bikes have larger batteries and bigger tires to take the extra punishment of heavy loads.

Specialized Globe Haul Cargo Bike

Our Number One Cargo bike choice is the Specialized Globe Haul

We picked the Haul primarily for its versatility, reliability, and warranty support. The unique single-size frame fits riders comfortably all over the size spectrum. The adjustable fit was designed to be perfect for you. Make it longer here and shorter there, and you’re ready to ride comfortably. The low center of gravity means it’s easy for a newcomer or a pro to handle, loaded up, or loaded down. Able to handle 419 pounds, adjust for riders 4’5″ to 6’4″, an unbelievable, Specialized factory 2-year warranty, UL listed 772Wh battery on 20X3.5 tires, illustrates why we would pick the Haul as our Number One Cargo bike.

Better yet, accessories are abundant. You can find front and rear panniers, baskets, even a rear rider seat for the kids. There is a long wheelbase version too, providing extra cargo space and additional carrying capacity.


Our final consideration is for you to ride your bike choice before you buy. Visiting any of our four Arizona shops will allow you to test ride or rent your bike or style. Look, touch, sit and ride. Options are a good thing.

Archer’s Bikes – Arizona’s largest e-bike dealer.

Thanks for reading. Wear a bike helmet when you ride. Stay safe.

Copyright 2024 Randy Archer

Trail-Side Tire Repairs 

Repair kit - what to carry to fix a flat tire.

Flat tires are a part of cycling. Every cyclist, from professionals to the complete beginner gets them, but don't fret - a puncture doesn't have to be the end of your ride. With practice you can change a flat in about 5 minutes and get back on the road. When you head out for bike ride, you should always carry the supplies needed to fix a flat, every time. Even if you don't know how to change a flat yet, bring these items anyway. Someone else might be able to help you. Here is a handy checklist:

  • A spare inner tube (or two, for longer rides)
  • A tube patch kit. Old-school, but great in a pinch. You can get tubeless tire plug patch kits and tire boots too. 
  • Tire levers - invaluable for removing and installing the tire
  • Portable hand Pump or CO2 cartridge inflator
  • Wrench to loosen your axle nuts or thru-axle (some bikes may require an Allen wrench)
  • Before you start out on a ride, check your tire pressure. 
Tire levers to take off tire 
CO2 Inflators 
Handy wrenches 
Carry a spare tube 
 
Portable hand pump 
Tubeless Tire Sealant 
Sealant for tubes 
Tannus Armour Lightweight Inserts 

Heavy Duty. If you want to avoid most flats, Desert-Proofing your tires is a good investment. It provides three layers of protection, Slime tire sealant, a heavy duty tube, and a lightweight plastic liner. The Slime will seal any small punctures, the heavy duty tube works with the Slime to make a good barrier and better sealing and the liner guards against sharp objects. Our desert-proof option includes the Slime, tube, liner and installation. You may also do each choice by itself. Many customers simply add Slime, or Specialized Airlock, to the tube and that's it.

Tubeless. Alternately, if equipped for tubeless ready, going tubeless is exceptional. It's lighter and more reliable, especially for mountain biking. The only downside is you must have rims and tires that are made for holding a good bead and they do need to have the sealant refreshed every few months. 

Lightweight Inserts. Just about any type of added protection from punctures adds to the weight of the tire and wheel. The lighter the tire, the more likely it will go flat. You must find a balance between protection and a heavy wheel. Also consider that the tire protects the rim from damage too. Light weight foam inserts, such as Tannus Armour, are a very popular choice because they don't add that much weight, allow for a natural ride and feel, and provide extra protection for the rim. 

Have A Plan. No matter how you set things up, you still should have a backup plan in case you get a flat tire. Practice changing the tire at home so you are comfortable making a repair on the road. Be prepared.

Tire Pressure 

Tires lose air every day. Tubeless tires even faster. A road tire can go from 120psi to 110psi in 24-hours. 

Park Tools tire pumpHere are a few tips on tire pressure:

  • Maximum recommended tire pressure is listed on the side of most tires. Do not exceed this rating. Generally, the smaller the cross section (how skinny the tire), the more pressure the tire can handle. 
  • It's best to check tire pressure before every ride. Low pressure causes flats. Do check your pressure at least once a week.
  • Mountain bike tires (2.0 to 3.0) will usually tolerate pressures as low as 28-32psi without getting pinch flats or excessive sidewall roll. Tubeless setups are usually lower, 24-28psi. Many riders use 9-15psi for tires in the plus category. Larger profiles can are even go lower, as low as 6psi on 4" fat tires. 
  • A 10 degree temperature change will change the pressure by about 2%. Rim braking on a road tire could cause very high temperatures and dangerous pressures (especially if over inflated).
  • Floor pumps are often off by as much as 5-15%. Use a good tire gauge to calibrate your floor pump and level-set your target mark on the floor pump dial.
  • The rougher the road surface, the lower the pressure should be. A 120psi road setting would be too much on a rough road and actually be less efficient to pedal (tires deflect and bounce, causing heat and efficiency loss). The road bike will be more comfortable to ride and roll better at 100psi. Tubeless road tire setups benefit from lower pressures, usually running at 100psi, instead of 120psi, for a road tire. For a typical 2.2 MTB tire, a cross-country mountain bike may be best at 32psi, while an all-mountain would be be better at 28psi (or 25psi for tubeless). Equally, the more you weigh, and the harder you ride or corner, the higher the pressure will need to be. The new Plus size tires may run 8-15psi (tubeless), so make sure you check the rated pressure or the manufacturer's recommendations.

Low pressure may cause:

  • Pinch flats - the tire compresses and pinches the tube inside
  • Tire slippage - cutting the tube valve
  • Tube abrasion - wearing out the tube inside
  • Tire roll - tearing the sidewall or losing control
  • Sidewall failure - tires sitting for a long time will crack at the flat spot made by the low pressure when the tire gradually goes completely flat
  • Poor traction - the tire rolls off the tread area
  • Bent rims - there is no protection from a hard hit
  • Tire wear - the tire no longer wears where/how it is intended, so wears out faster
  • Cracking - watch for cracks in the tire tread or casing - replace tries that are cracking
Find the Right Tube or Tire for Your Bike
  • Check your tube or tire size using the ISO metric system, for example, a 700 tire uses an ISO 622 tire/tube and a typical 26” tire uses an ISO tire/tube of 559.
  • Only the ISO measures the actual bead diameter. For example: a 26 X 1.95 has an ISO of 559, but a 26 X 1 3/8 has an ISO of 590 (very different sizes).
  • The ISO section (sect) size is also a fairly accurate way to judge how fat the tire is. For example, 700 road tires are usually 23-38mm wide, while 700 (or "29er") mountain bike tires are typically 48-58mm (1.9" to 2.3") wide. Yet, both the 700c and the 29er have the same bead diameter (622).
  • Schrader valves are by far the most common valve. Presta or French valves are smaller and becoming much more common. 
  • An adapter can make filling Presta valves very easy from a Schrader-type pump.
  • All rims come with a well area to allow easy tire removal and installation. Getting the bead to drop into the well makes tire changes possible. 

tire size comparison chart

tire sizing tips

Older tires and rims can be confusing. If you are not certain, bring the tire and the rim to the shop for our experts to look at. 

well on rim illustration

When changing a tire, squeeze the bead together to get extra slack to pull the tire over the lip of the rim. Make sure the bead drops into the well all the way around.

presta adapterPresta vs schrader

A Presta valve adapter may be used to fill Presta tubes from a Schrader valve pump.

More About Tire Sizing

Imperial, Metric & American Tire Sizing
Sometimes you can’t find any ISO size on a tire, only the old familiar markings. Although they’re familiar they can be very confusing. Tires of same size come with lots of different markings: e.g. 28×1¼×15/8 or 28×1¾×1¼ or 700×32C are all 32–622. Even worse, the same or very similar markings can sometimes be found on completely different sizes of tire: e.g. 26×1½ is a whole inch bigger than 26×1.5. Refer to the column headed Imperial, Metric or American in order to work out what actual (ISO) size you have. The first two headings need no explanation. The American column is for tire sizes originating in the USA and where US markings may confuse. Note that American and Japanese branded road tires tend to be smaller than described and often lack any ISO markings.

Tire–rim compatibility
Two tires with the same ISO markings are completely interchangeable, even if one seems to be metric and the other is also marked in inches: e.g. 650B and 26×1½ are both 38-584. Road tires (700c) and mountain bike tires ("29er") are both 622. The newer 27.5 mountain bike tires are designated as 650B or an ISO of 584. Look for the ISO numbers and you will always know exactly what you need. Even some rims are now marked according to ISO with their bead diameter and internal section (width where the tire fits): e.g. 622–17 for the size are usually fitted to touring and hybrid bikes. But, some manufacturers give the overall width instead. Subtract 6mm from overall width to estimate the rim section, or simply measure the distance between the flanges. If the rim is not marked with its bead diameter you can read this from the tire – it’s the one dimension they have in common.

Tire width is complicated by how you measure it, what size rim it is attached and what air pressure. Two factors are important when looking at width, will it fit in the bike frame, and is it the right size your rim. Generally, tires will fit a rim that is 55% to 65% the tire width. On a 50-559, the rim should be about 1" to 1 1/2" wide.

Odd size tires

Watch out for tires that have unusual markings. Many tires, especially older ones, have the outside diameter listed. This is not the same as the bead diameter. You need the bead diameter to get the right size tire or tube. Look for the ISO metric size to get the right combination. Note: 12" tires are usually marked as 12-1/2  X  2-1/4.  Strange, but true.

Shopping

When you go shopping for a tire, you will notice that the measurements are not precise. This is because there are no universal standards for measuring tires. For example, the width of a tire on a 15mm rim is very different when mounted on a 30mm rim. Similarly, you may have a 28” tire. However, the internal diameter is 622mm, more commonly called a 700c. How the tire fits on your rim and the clearance from the frame can vary considerably among brands. Things to consider:

  • Tire pressure
  • Type of tread
  • Tubeless versus tubed
  • Rim width
  • Rim diameter versus the actual bead seat (how tight the bead is on the rim - e.g., tubeless rims/tires fit tighter)
  • Thickness of the casing (e.g., race versus puncture resistant)
  • Tire profile (round, oval or square)
  • Clearance (width between frame, the height of the tire, interference with derailleur or chain)
  • Measurement system (ETRTO/ISO, common, Imperial, Metric, American)

Check all around your wheels how much clearance you have between the tire and frame/fork/brakes. The most important are:

  • Fork crown
  • Brake calipers (front and rear): squeeze your brakes to get the clearance when you’re braking
  • Chain stays
  • Seat stays can limit the clearances on some bikes
  • Seat tube
  • Fenders: often, you can adjust the fenders to eliminate a tight spot.

We recommend a minimum of 3 mm clearance between your tires and the closest part of your bike. Any less, and you risk having your tire rub under hard acceleration or if the wheel develops a slight wobble.

Clearance between the chain stayWidth of tire at pressureClearance from height of tire

Use this handy chart to find the right tire:

Tire Size Chart

Rim width - Schwalby Tires

Oil Your Chain

Dumonde tech chain oil lite   Dumonde tech chin oil MTB  

Always use a good quality bicycle-specific chain lubricant. Dumonde Tech chain lube is a liquid plastic and through polymerization forms long-lasting plating on all chain surfaces. The benefits of Dumonde are:

  • Dumond forms an extremely low-friction plating
  • Plating bonds to chain and can’t be washed off
  • Components stay cleaner, last longer and run quieter
  • Extremely durable, outlasts all other chain lubes
  • Environmentally sensitive and saves money
  • Is applied sparingly unlike many other other lubes


Lite and Original Bicycle Chain Lube (BCL) differ only in their concentration. Original BCL is more concentrated for exceptional durability under the most challenging conditions - like mountain biking or motorized gas or electric bikes.

In our shop, we use Dumonde BCL on cables, pivots points and seals. It is safe on plastic, rubber, and all sealing materials.  The product is designed to not harm your components. It is eco-friendly and environmentally sensitive, is engineered to perform with minimal “carbon footprint” by not washing off in water, is used sparingly, lasts longer between applications, resulting in longer drive chain life. It even works in the extreme cold conditions.

To prepare for maximum performance from BCL, use a high quality solvent, to thoroughly clean, and then dry the chain, before the first application.  You will only need to clean the chain once, prior to the first application. Over several rides, 2-3 applications are required for the bonding process to occur through polymerization. Apply BCL sparingly (apply one drop at a time to each link, until every link has been lubed), then wipe off excess lubricant with a clean cloth to the point where the chain’s outer surface appears dry.  One ounce of Dumonde Tech BCL will give you many applications. Re-apply BCL after several rides, listening to your chain sound, not appearance or time, as the best indicator of when the chain needs a reapplication of Original.  Use mild soap and water to clean between applications.

Oil only belongs inside the pin of the chain. The outside should be wiped clean. As well, the front chain rings and rear cogs should be free of oil and dirt. Dirty and oily drive trains attract sand and dirt that eats away at the drive surface. Keep it all clean.

Check Your Drive Train

Always keep your drive train clean. Oil should be inside the chain, not outside. Outside oil collects dirt and gets your leg greasy! Check the chain line and look for chain rubbing on the derailleur before every ride. It is easy to inadvertently bump the derailleur offline, causing poor chain alignment and dropping the chain. It is common for a chain to come off from a hard bump, shifting under too much pressure, or poor shifting technique. Keeping the chain maintained and in good alignment will help you avoid premature wear or a dropped chain.

Your chain wears out first. If not replaced when worn, it puts extra wear on the chainrings and rear cogs. Normally, you can replace your chain twice before replacing the chainrings and cogs. However, if you let the chain go, you must replace other parts sooner. Worse, worn cogs and chainrings will damage a new chain. 

A good method for checking chain wear is by measuring it with a ruler. Park Tool© has some great advice on this (Chain Check): "Pick a rivet and line it up at the zero mark. Count 23 more rivets, and your last rivet should be at the 12” mark of your ruler. If it is off by more than 1/16” your chain is stretched to the point of replacement." Note that chains are not worn on the outside; they are worn out on the pins inside. In other words, you cannot tell if a chain is worn out just by looking at it. 

According to Park Tool©, you can make a quick check by looking for slack when the chain is wrapped around the big chain ring: "If [the chain] lifts off the chainring to the point where you can see a lot of daylight [1/4"] between your chain and chainrings, you’ll either need to replace your chain, or you are fast approaching the point of replacement. It’s nearly as accurate as using the proper tool, but it’s a good starting point if you haven’t replaced your chain in a while."

Look at the teeth on your drive chain. Often, they will be visibly worn into sharp points at the tooth, especially on small cogs. A worn cog will allow a new chain to be slack when wrapped around the cog. Any slack by a new chain around a cog indicates wear. It's probably time to change them all out. As well it's best to replace all the cogs and chainrings at the same time, regardless of individual wear.

Visit our store to buy chain tools by Park Tool©. We carry a very large selection of tools for the professional and home mechanic (Park Tool Bicycle Tools). 

Here is a link to a Park Tool video on how to check your chain.

New Mountain Bike? Follow this very important first step

Set the SAG and rebound on you air shock/fork.

SAG is the amount of travel on your fork or shock from your static body weight and the bike. Shocks are designed to operate best in the middle third of their travel. Essentially, your goal is to have the bike in the middle third 80% of the time. Secondarily, SAG should be set so you don’t bottom out on hard hits or big G-outs. Some shocks/forks do have the option to insert small tokens or bumpers to cushion the last 10% of travel, allowing you to have a softer SAG setting, but still prevent bottoming out. As a guideline, cross-country and fast flowing trail terrain, target around 15%-25% SAG, to ride a little higher in the stroke and maintain a firm feel (bikes with about 100mm of travel). For all-mountain and steeper more challenging terrain, target around 30% SAG, to keep the ride in the middle third (bikes with about 140mm of travel). For downhill and fast technical terrain, target around 33% SAG, to ensure you take advantage of the full travel available (bikes over 150mm of travel). Your riding preference will also determine your personalized SAG setting. Some like less SAG for a firmer ride, while others prefer a plush ride. Experiment to get to your preference. After every change you make, be sure to cycle the shock or fork at least 30 times to ensure equalization of air pressure.

To set your rear shock, adjust the initial air pressure according to your weight and the manufacturers recommendations. Open the compression adjuster all the way (soft). Using a helper, carefully get on the bike, sit in a neutral position, reset the O-ring and observe how far down you compress the shock. Dismount easy and verify you are between 25% and 33%. Add or let air out depending on your goal. Check your setting after every ride to verify that you still are in range. Look at the O-ring or dirt line to see if you are using your range as expected and not bottoming out.

To set the forks, use the same procedure as the shock, but you will need to pedal around some. Open the compression adjuster all the way (soft). Get on easy, ride smoothly and don’t come to an abrupt stop. Most forks have a chart for a starting weight to air pressure setting or you can look it up on their website. Either way, you SAG goal is the same. As with the shock, check your dirt line after each ride.

Next, set the rebound. This controls how fast the shock returns to normal (bounces back). Adjust your rebound slower by turning it in all the way. Unscrew the rebound adjuster and count each click. The more you weigh (higher air pressure), the slower the rebound will be. Start at the manufacturers recommendation for rebound, based on the air pressure you set. Screw the rebound adjuster all the way in and back it out between 30% and 50% of the total clicks. Your goal is for the shock to not kick you when you go over a big bump and off a jump. Too much rebound will cause the shock to stay too low in the stroke and result in a harsh ride. For the fork, your goal is a plush feel and the fork to not push you out of the corners. As with the shock, start at the manufacturers recommendation or 30% to 50% out from fully screwed in.

Having your SAG and rebound set properly will allow you to get the full benefit of your bike. It will balance the front and rear action and vastly improve your control. Adjust in small increments so you can find your sweet spot. Now go out and ride.

Upgrade Your Road Bike to Tubeless!